The quality of the water is the single most important aspect of tropical fish keeping. Water can be a lot of things besides wet. It is necessary to monitor and maintain the environment in which you keep your fish so that they can be kept clean and clear. Water hardness, ammonias, the pH level and many other factors go into a well maintained aquarium. Cloudy water can be an indication of potential problems in the tank due to conditions that have somehow deteriorated.

Cloudy water is most commonly caused by an excess of bacteria in the water. This bacteria may not necessarily be bad or harmful to the fish, although it can decrease the available oxygen supply in the water.

New aquarium owners are frequently confronted with some form of cloudy water shortly after the tank is set up and new fish are introduced. This is usually due to the fact that the "balance" of the aquarium is disrupted by the new fish and the foods used to keep them alive. Cloudy water occurs because there are two types of bacteria at work here. One type feeds and multiplies on the excess food and fish wastes while the other feed on the first bacteria to keep it in check. In new aquariums there is a lack of the second type of bacteria; this leads to a cloudy aquarium. A partial water change of about 25% of the water will almost always take care of this problem. DO NOT clean the filter, this will destroy the "good" bacteria.

A more serious problem of cloudy water occurs in tanks that have been set up for some time. It is sometimes accompanied by an offensive odour. There could be many causes for this situation: improper water conditions, decaying food, too many fish, an increase in the aquarium temperature, an excess of fish wastes, a non-functioning filtration system, an undetected dead fish, or even a coating on the surface of the water that prevents the diffusion of gases. The proper course of action should be to check the tank thoroughly for any dead fish or an accumulation of decaying material at the bottom. Check the water condition - pH, water hardness and ammonia levels. Do a partial water change by siphoning about 25% of the water from the BOTTOM of the tank. Check to make sure the filter is functioning properly and that the temperature is at an acceptable level.

In extreme cases, chemicals can be added to the water to help alleviate the problem, but should be used with the above steps to assure success.

The canary is the smallest seed eating finch. It weighs approximately 1/2 ounce and measures about 5 inches long. Wild canaries do not show the tremendous colour variations found in the domestic birds available in pet shops; they are primarily a greenish yellow. The wild canaries have been bred over a number of centuries to develop birds both bright and distinctive in colour, as well as birds that produce a pleasant song. Years ago, the best singing canaries were bred in the Harz Mountains of Germany. Generally, only the male canary will sing, but the female will make pleasant sounds.

HOUSING: Since canaries, being members of the finch family, are relatively small birds, they can live in a comparatively small space. The bars of the canary cage can be either horizontal or vertical, but the bars of the cage should be narrow enough to prevent the canary from sticking his head out. This active bird should have plenty of perches located in such a position so no portion of the bird's tail, wings or head will touch another perch. The perches should not be located above open food or water dishes. The perches should allow the feet to encircle them completely. You can use sanded perch covers, if you wish, to help keep the nails trimmed.

Food and water dishes that were purchased with the cage can be used. These can be covered. Treats can be fed in smaller treat cups to help provide a more varied and balanced diet.

Since canaries are avid bathers, a cage bird bath should be provided.

You can locate the cage where your pet can get some indirect, natural sunlight. Never keep the cage in direct sunlight for extended periods of time because this can cause dehydration or heat stroke. Keep the cage off the floor to prevent drafts. A quiet area of the home will provide the bird with a sense of security. Cover the cage at night, because birds roost at dusk and a canary will not sing in the dark.

CAGE MAINTENANCE: The cage should be cleaned thoroughly once a week using soap and warm water to clean the bars. In addition, the bottom of the cage should be cleaned daily if possible, replacing the gravel or gravel paper. The seed cups must be checked daily to ensure the availability of fresh seed at all times. The empty hulls should be removed (you can hold the seed in the palm of your hand and gently blow the empty hulls away) and the seed replaced. The water container should be washed and rinsed carefully and refilled with clean water. Do not wash the perches, but clean them using a special perch cleaning brush.

FEEDING: Clean, fresh water should always be available. Make sure to check it more frequently during hot, humid days.

Birds have a very high metabolism, which means that their bodies use, and need, tremendous amounts of food in comparison to their body weight. Members of the finch family can eat about one-third of their body weight daily. Canaries feed primarily on seeds and fruits. A basic, high quality canary food containing primarily canary seed, rape seed and other assorted seeds, should be available at all times. Many types of specialized canary foods are available including song food, moulting food, greens and grains, and more. All birds require grit in order to properly digest their food. This can be sprinkled on the bottom of the cage or supplied in a treat cup.

Variety in the diet is very helpful in maintaining healthy, colourful birds. Canaries cannot forage for food in captivity as they would do in nature, so it is up to the pet owner to provide the variety in their diet. This can include green vegetable tops (avoid lettuce), small slices of fruit or even hard-boiled egg yolks. Remember to feed these treats in small quantities and remove any uneaten portions to avoid spoilage.

Cuttlebones will provide a source or calcium and minerals that are important components in bone and feather development. Food supplements and vitamins can be added to the food or water.

LIFESTYLE: Canaries, like other members of the finch family, are extremely delicate birds. They should not be handled unless absolutely necessary. One such occasion is when the nails may need trimming. Gently hold the canary in your hand with the feet exposed. Carefully extend the foot and trim the nails using a sharp pair of scissors or preferably a nail trimmer made specifically for birds. If you hold the foot up to the light, you will see the "quick". Be sure to avid cutting the quick; if cut it will bleed.

Do not allow the canary to fly around the home. Open doors, windows and uncovered water sources could be hazardous to the canary.

The sexes are difficult to distinguish except for the fact that only the male will sing. If you have a compatible pair, provide them with a nest for canaries and attach it to the cage. A special breeding cage should be used with a wire and solid partition in the centre. Keep them separated for a few days then remove the solid partition so they can see each other. When they are ready to breed, the male will sing a distinctive mating song. At this point the wire partition is removed. Provide the female with nesting material, or nesting hair. The female usually lays 3 to 4 eggs that will hatch in about 2 weeks. The young will remain in the nest for about 3 more weeks until they become fully feathered. They are dependent on their parents for food for an additional few weeks.

HEALTH: If you are attentive to the normal activity and the amount of food consumed, you can easily determine if your canary is feeling well. The most dangerous problem canaries, and most caged birds, face is drafts. Inactivity, diarrhea or shallow breathing are all signs of potential problems. Many products are available for combating bacterial or intestinal problems.

Prevent mites and lice from attacking your canary by using a bird cage guard. Washes and powders are also available to keep these problems minimized.

The best prevention when dealing with caged birds is careful, attentive care. A proper diet and cages located in suitable locations will help you keep a healthy, active pet for many years.

Chinchillas were originally brought into the United States as a source of pelts for the fur industry. Their hair is very soft and dense. Now they are most common as endearing pets. The chinchilla is available today in pet stores in a variety of colours including charcoal, albino, beige, silver, lilac, buff, light charcoal and ebony.

HOUSING: Chinchillas require a cage large enough for the animal to run around in. A cage 2 to 3 feet long and 18 inches high and wide is adequate. They prefer a cage with a solid bottom but, the cage could have a wire bottom if the wire is covered with bedding. Chinchillas like to run, climb and jump so a cage that contains some shelves is a good choice.

The food dish should be heavy enough so that the chinchilla will not be able to tip it over. A ceramic or metal dish can be used. Water should be provided in a water bottle. A guinea pig size water bottle is adequate.

The bedding material in the chinchilla cage should be soft pine shavings, kiln dried. Aspen bedding is also acceptable. Newspaper is ok, but it wont absorb much, it might stain the chin's fur, and they will gleefully rip it to shreds. NEVER use cedar bedding as it is toxic to chins. Also, corn cob bedding is unacceptable, it carries mites that will infest your chinny. Cat litter isn't a good idea either. The scented kind is toxic, and the clay kind will stick to the chin's fur.

Climbing branches can be added to the cage if no shelves are available. Hardwood is best because the material can be chewed without danger to your pet.

Wooden blocks can also be used to satisfy the need to chew. Chinchillas teeth, like those of rabbits, continue to grow throughout their lives. Chew toys are necessary for good dental hygiene, keeping the teeth worn down. They will also provide your pet with useful diversion. A wheel will provide your pet with exercise. Make sure you purchase one large enough for the chinchilla.

THE DUST CONTAINER: The chinchilla's natural instinct is to roll in volcanic dust in an effort to stay clean by removing excess moisture and oils from their dense coats. Chinchilla dust is extremely important because they do not bathe in water as other animals do. Keep about 2 inches of chinchilla dust in the container. The dust does not get dirty but needs to be replaced from time to time. The healthy chinchilla has no odour and they do not attract fleas, mites or lice. The proper size dust container is about 6 inches wide, 12 inches long, and 6 inches deep. A small cat litter pan will serve the purpose nicely, but do not use any type of cat litter in this pan. The chemicals added to cat litter can be dangerous.

CAGE MAINTENANCE: Chinchillas choose to eliminate in one corner of the cage; this area should be cleaned daily. The bedding should be replaced and the cage cleaned at least once a week using a mild soap or bleach solution. Make sure that the cage is totally dry before replacing the litter. The food dish should be cleaned and dried completely before replacing the food. The water bottle should be cleaned using a bottle brush and the metal spout should be cleaned thoroughly as well. Clean, and replace as necessary, any of the chinchilla dust.

FEEDING: Clean, fresh water should be available at all times. Make sure that it is checked more frequently during hot, humid days.

Chinchillas are easy animals to feed. A basic, high quality chinchilla diet should be available at all times. Make sure that you purchase chinchilla pellets when buying food for your pet. Rabbit or guinea pig pellets do not contain the necessary nutrients required for chinchillas. Chinchilla pellets should contain about 18% protein, 2.5% fat, 15% fibre, 9% ash and 2% added minerals. The ingredients of chinchilla pellets can consist of alfalfa meal, ground barley, ground oats, soybean meal and wheat germ meal.

Treats and supplements should be provided in order to provide a varied diet. Vegetables (lettuce and members of the cabbage family should be avoided), corn, apples, carrots, and raisins can all be used to supplement the chinchilla's diet. You want the chinchilla to eat mainly the pellets, so feed treats on a limited basis, using very small amounts each time and removing any uneaten portions to avoid spoilage. Alfalfa cubes can be used. These provide additional nutrients and also chewing exercise. Vitamins or food supplements can be added to the food or water.

LIFESTYLE: Chinchillas are very timid animals and they need love and attention from the very beginning. Try to find a pet that is as young as possible. Allow him to smell your hand before you attempt to handle him. Speak to him in a gentle, soothing voice. They should be handled in much the same way as rabbits; that is, one hand under the chest and the other supporting the hind legs. This makes the chinchilla feel secure. As is the case with most rodents, chinchillas are nocturnal, they are more active at night than during the day. They should be given a quiet environment in which to rest approximately 10 - 12 hours each day.

A chinchilla will live from 15 to 25 years. Pairs of chinchillas make good pets and live together well, but keep in mind that they will reproduce. Two males should be avoided because they may fight. Chinchillas mature at the age of five months. The breeding conditions and their behaviour is very similar to rabbits.

The gestation period is about 110 days with generally small litters - perhaps one or two young. The babies are born with their eyes open and they can easily crawl. The dust box should be emptied once the babies are born to prevent them from becoming matted with dust. The babies will stay with the mother for about 6 weeks, at which time they will be able to eat and drink on their own.

HEALTH: Like a dog or cat, their fur acts as an insulator in winter and an air conditioner in the summer. They should never be given a bath because their fur is so dense and they are very difficult to dry. The nails can be trimmed by a file to prevent scratches. Chinchillas can be brushed using a soft cat or dog brush.

The most common cockatiel is the normal grey, from which all other colours were developed. Other varieties available are the lutino, a yellow bird with bright orange cheeks; the pied, a colourful combination of white, grey and yellow; the cinnamon, a light brown bird; and the pearl, a grey bird with small yellow spots on the wings and back. A cockatiel can live into its teens or twenties. Some have liven in captivity for as long as thirty years.

HOUSING: Cockatiels needs a cage that can accommodate their wide wingspan and length. Because they can be active pets, they also need some room in which to move around. Get a cage that could house a small parrot but with narrow bars to prevent them from sticking their heads out. Horizontal bars, good for climbing, are preferred. A large door is also recommended.

The proper perch size is 3/4-inch; 1-inch perches can also be used for foot exercise. Do not use parakeet-sized perches because they can cause stress on the foot and the nails could grow to undesirable lengths. Space them so the tail or crest do not touch the upper or lower perches. Use open– top food and water bowls because cockatiels do not feel comfortable when placing their heads in covered feeders and waterers. A toy of some type, like a piece of wood on a chain, or a manzanita branch, will help prevent boredom and feather pulling. You could also purchase a playpen for your cockatiel. This is useful to provide some activity for your pet and also provide you a location for placing the bird when cleaning the cage.

Keep the cage in a location where your pet can get some indirect natural sunlight. As with all caged birds, keep the cage away from direct sunlight. Extended time in direct sunlight can cause dehydration or heat stroke.

CAGE MAINTENANCE: The cage should be cleaned thoroughly once a week using soap and warm water to clean the cage and bars. In addition, clean the bottom of the cage daily if possible and replace the gravel or gravel paper. The seed cup should be checked daily, the empty seed hulls removed and the seed replaced. The water container should be washed and rinsed thoroughly and refilled with clean water. Do not wash the perches, but clean them using a special perch cleaning brush.

FEEDING: Clean, fresh water should always be available.

The cockatiel is one of the least demanding birds. Nevertheless, a quality balanced diet is required for you pet. A food mixture especially for cockatiels or small hookbilled birds is recommended as a start. It is also important to supplement the diet with foods other than the basic cockatiel diet. Treats such as honey sticks, millet sprays, and cockatiel treats can be used as well as spinach, corn on the cob, beans and apple slices. Do not use lettuce. Feed small quantities of fresh fruits or vegetables, and remove uneaten portions promptly to avoid spoiling.

Gravel, or grit, is necessary for the cockatiel to digest its food. This can be provided in a treat cup, or spread on the bottom of the cage (if the cage is cleaned regularly).

The cockatiel need a cuttlebone or mineral block to help in the proper formation of healthy feathers and bones. Cuttlebones and mineral blocks also keep the beak trimmed.

You can add food supplements, or vitamins to the water or food.

LIFESTYLE: Baby cockatiels that have been hand fed are available in most pet stores, as are older birds. Hand fed babies are the most receptive to their new owners since they have had human contact and have been handled for a considerable length of time. The older birds, however, can be easily trained and are usually available at a lower price. When attempting to tame a cockatiel, make sure that one wing is clipped. This makes it difficult for the bird to fly and makes handling easier. Without the ability to fly, the danger of the bird injuring himself is lessened.

When first attempting to handle an untamed bird, make sure that you wrap the bird completely in a towel when removing it from the cage. Remember that gloves are not recommended because they can frighten the bird.

It is best for one person to work with the bird. Train the cockatiel to sit on your finger or hand by slowly putting you hand in the cage with one finger extended. Speak softly to the bird. If the cockatiel becomes frightened, remove your hand slowly and wait until your pet clams down before another attempt. Gently stroke the bird's chest, then perhaps he will step on your hand or finger. It will soon be stepping from one hand to the other if you react calmly without jerky movements. Once the bird is accustomed to your hand, attempt to pet it. While he is sitting on one hand reach your hand behind the bird and gently stroke its neck. Remember to move slowly and speak to it in a calm, soothing voice. Once the bird will step on your hand and accept petting, repeated handling and petting will keep the cockatiel calm and trusting. When the bird is fully trained, you can then proceed to teach it to talk or learn tricks.

Adult cockatiels are easily sexed. The males have bright yellow faces and solid grey tail and flight feathers. Females have only limited colour in their faces and the tail and fight feathers have small yellow spots. Either sex will make an excellent pet. The males tend to be noisier and slightly more outgoing, while the females are shy but more affectionate.

HEALTH: If you watch your pet carefully, minor problems can be eliminated quickly. Any change in diet, diarrhea or difficulty breathing are signs to look for. While cockatiels are very hardy, the most serious problem that can occur with any caged bird is a cold or pneumonia. Keep your pet out of drafts and in an environment that provides him with a constant temperature. If your bird does catch a cold, medications are available at your area Ruffin's Pet Centre.

Covering the cage at night is useful. Not only does it prevent drafts, but it also reduces stress by providing your pet with the darkness he requires.

Finches are members of the scientific family Fringillidae. This pertains to all members of the wild finches found throughout the world and those finches that are commonly kept as caged birds. The American goldfinch is a member of this group, as well as the canary. These small birds are generally seed eaters but will occasionally eat insects, green foods and some types of fruit. In most cases, the male is the more colourful of the two sexes. As visitors to the garden, their delicate songs and chirping become a pleasing addition. Those finches kept as pets also brighten the household with their activity and pleasant sounds.

These pleasant little birds are an ideal pet for the home. They require very little intensive care, many are inexpensive, they come in a rainbow of colours and are compatible with all other finches of the same size. Finches thrive better when kept in groups, so it is better to have more than one finch.

Finches range from three to six inches in size. They will live in captivity from five to fifteen years.

HOUSING: Finches are active, bright, contented birds and they can live in a small space. A larger cage, however, will accommodate their active lifestyle, and since they coexist well with other finches, the increased number of birds dictates a larger area. The bars of a finch cage can be either horizontal or vertical but the spacing should be narrow enough for the bird to keep his head inside (this is sometimes known as "finch spacing"). Plenty of perches should be available, located so no portion of the bird's head, tail, or open wings will touch the perches above or below. Perches should not be located directly above food or water dishes. The perches should allow the feet to encircle them completely. Use sanded perch covers, if you wish, to keep the nails trimmed. Different sized perches can be used to provide your pet with a more natural environment.

Food and water can be provided in dishes that come with the cage or in tube-type feeders and waterers. Treats can be fed in smaller treat cups to provide a more varied and balanced diet. All birds require grit in order to properly digest their food. This can be placed on the cage floor or in a treat cup.

Locate the cage in a site that will furnish your finches with some indirect sunlight. Keeping finches in direct sunlight, even for short periods, can cause dehydration or even heat stroke. The cage should be kept off the floor; this prevents drafts and provides the finches with an added sense of security. Cover the cage in the evening because birds roost at dusk.

CAGE MAINTENANCE: The cage and bars should be cleaned thoroughly once a week using soap and warm water. In addition, the bottom of the cage should be cleaned daily if possible, replacing the gravel or gravel paper. The seed cup must be checked daily to ensure the availability of fresh seed at all times. The empty hulls should be removed (you can hold the seed in your hand and gently blow the empty hulls away) and the seed replaced. The water container should be washed and rinsed carefully then refilled with clean water. Do not wash the perches, but clean them using a special perch cleaning brush.

FEEDING: Clean, fresh water should always be available.

Birds have a very high metabolism, which means that their bodies use and need tremendous amounts of food in comparison to their body weight. Finches have a metabolic rate that is higher than many other birds. It has been noted that finches will eat about one-third of their body weight each day. It is essential that your finches are always well supplied with food. A basic, high quality finch seed should be available at all times. You should also sprinkle some gravel on the bottom of the cage. Variety in the diet is also very helpful. Finches in captivity cannot forage for food as they would do in nature, so it is up to you to add variety to their diet. This can include green vegetable tops (avoid lettuce), small slices of fruits, or hard-boiled egg yolks. Remember to feed these treats in small quantities and remove any uneaten portions promptly to avoid spoilage.

Cuttlebones will provide a source of calcium and minerals that are important components in bone and feather development. Food supplements and vitamins can be added to the water or food.

LIFESTYLE: Finches are extremely delicate birds. They should not be handled unless absolutely necessary. One such occasion is when the nails may need trimming. Gently hold your finch in your hand with the feet exposed. Carefully extend the foot and trim the nails using a sharp pair of scissors or a nail trimmer made especially for birds. If you hold the foot up to the light you will see the "quick", which will cause bleeding if cut.

Do not allow your finches to fly around the home. Open doors, windows or uncovered water sources could be hazardous to your pet.

Many types of finches are easy to breed. Make sure that you own a pair who are actively courting each other (usually remaining together in one section of the cage). Purchase a nest for finches and attach it to the cage. Provide the pair with nesting material, or nesting hair. The female will do most of the nest building and pay the most attention to the eggs. There will be between three and seven eggs in the nest. The young will hatch in about twelve to fourteen days. In about two to three weeks the young will leave the nest.

HEALTH: If you are attentive to the normal activity and the amount of food consumed, you can easily determine if your finch is feeling well. The most dangerous problem finches, and most caged birds, face is drafts. Inactivity, diarrhea or shallow breathing are all signs of potential problems. Many products are available for combating bacterial or intestinal problems.

Prevent mites and lice from attacking your finches by using a bird cage guard. Washes and powders are also available to keep these problems minimized.

The main problem with fleas is their mobility. A flea can travel tremendous distances by jumping (as much as 100 times its length) and can therefore easily attach itself to a dog or a cat for a "free ride" to the home. When conditions are right (high heat and humiditiy) fleas reproduce rapidly. They can arrive on your pet from almost anywhere – the yard, the neighbor's dog or even the home itself.

The flea allergy, flea allergy dermatitis, is caused by the saliva of the flea. In some cases, it only takes a few flea bites to cause this reaction. In others, an animal that is allergic to flea saliva could continue to scratch for days as the result of a single flea bite.

Fleas are also the intermediate host to the tapeworm. Once a flea is ingested by a dog or cat, the tapeworm parasite infects the digestive system of the new host. While the tapeworm is not normally a serious health threat to the pet, they can, in extreme cases, cause diarrhea and a shabby looking skin and coat. The problem now is two parasites, one internal and the other external. The tapeworm is relatively easy to control, but the fleas are a different matter. However, by controlling the fleas, you will also control the tapeworm.

When treating fleas on an infested pet, remember that other animals in the household probably are affected as well, even though they may not be scratching. It is best to treat all pets, and the home, in some way or another if one pet has shown signs of fleas.

LIFECYCLE:

The flea will live for about one year. They go through the same four stages of development as any other insect – egg, larva, pupa, adult. In cold weather, the eggs lie dormant but with warmer temperatures and higher humidity, they hatch into larva and become adult fleas. This can happen in a very short period of time (as short as three weeks) depending on the conditions. Fleas only live on the animal about 20% of the time, the rest of the time they live in your pet's environment. It is important to control fleas not only on your pet but also in his sleeping area, home and yard. The female flea will lay her eggs on the body of the animal (usually only about three to eighteen) then they will fall to the ground, carpet or bedding area. One female flea will lay a few hundred eggs in her lifetime. In fact, in 30 days, ten female fleas can multiply to 250,000 fleas.

There are more than 2,400 species of fleas worldwide. Of these, about 20 species will bite humans. Two are threats to dogs or cats.

Fleas can remain dormant for one year, then revive and survive months without feeding.

Fleas, because of the chemistry of their bodies, can jump up to 30,000 times consecutively.

Fleas can cause something as simple as an irritating itch or as complex as the plague that occurred during the Dark Ages.

No one product alone can control the situation. Effective flea control consists of the elimination of fleas in as many of the areas in and around the home and pet as possible. A multiple approach to flea control is recommended. By dividing the process into steps or the home into zones, controlling fleas is an easier task. When purchasing products for flea control on the animal, make sure you get the proper product for dogs or cats. Some dog flea control products can be toxic to cats.

1) BATHING AND GROOMING… Purchase a quality shampoo made specifically for dogs or cats, or take your pet to a dog groomer for a flea bath or dip. If you bathe your pet yourself, make sure you pay particular attention to the feet and between the toes, a favorite hiding place for fleas. If there is a necessity for frequent bathing, use a flea shampoo that contains pyrethrins. This chemical is low in toxicity, and can be used as many as two or three times a week.

2) HOME… Purchase flea foggers (flea bombs) for use in your home. These will kill the fleas not currently on your pet, those hidden in the carpet or under moldings. Choose foggers that will kill both the adult and pre-adult fleas. Some foggers have a residual effect, killing fleas as they hatch. A good time to use the fogger is just after the animal has been bathed. You should plan to be out of the home for a few hours. It's a good idea to vacuum the home thoroughly to get as many of the flea eggs and larva as possible before using a fogger. Remove the bag or empty the vacuum cleaner when finished.

IMPORTANT: Remember to remove any caged pets when fogging the home. Goldfish bowls, caged birds and small animals (like hamsters) should be removed , fish tanks should be covered and aeration turned off.

3) YOUR PET…

FLEA COLLARS: Put a good quality flea collar on your pet. These will not keep fleas off your pet but they will kill some of the fleas on your pet. Some flea collars last longer than others. Be careful to watch for any allergic reactions to the flea collar around the dog or cat's neck.

FLEA POWDERS: In order for any flea powder to work effectively, it must be rubbed in well to the dog or cat's coat; rub against the grain. Start at the head and neck area and work your way to the tail. It is only effective when it comes in contact with the skin.

FLEA SPRAYS: Apply thoroughly and then rub in well to the coat.

4) YOUR PET'S FAVORITE PLACES… Use a powder or spray to control fleas in areas where your pet spends a lot of time, such as favorite sleeping areas or cages. Other areas of attention when using a spray could be under baseboards, closets or under sinks and cabinets.

Other locations that should be treated are the outside areas: these could include the dog house, kennel runs or favorite sleeping places.

FUS is an inflammation or obstruction of the urinary tract (the bladder and urethra) caused by crystals that form in the bladder. The mineral crystals form as a result of high levels of magnesium, and a high level of alkalinity in the urine, leading to a blockage of the urethra. These crystals, or struvite stones, are the result, not the cause, of the problem. Cats that are less active due to reduced physical activity and cats that eat foods high in magnesium are most susceptible to FUS.

The main cause of FUS seems to be the diet, but there are other factors that could contribute to the formation of these mineral crystals in the bladder.

1) The type of food provided to the cat may contain high levels of magnesium.

2) The litter box may be dirty or in a location that is difficult to reach, causing infrequent urination.

3) The quality of the drinking water may be poor, or it may not be provided in an accessible location, leading to less than adequate water intake.

4) The reduction of physical activity.

5) Stress.

A high level of alkalinity in the urine is primarily caused by the type of food the cat eats.

There are some warning signs to look for when you suspect your cat has FUS: bloody urine, the cat urinates in locations other than the litter pan, the cat remains in a squatting position for extended periods of time, the cat strains while urinating, or a distended bladder that is painful to the touch. Other signs that might indicate FUS are vomiting or fatigue.

FUS is severe enough to be fatal if left untreated. Poisonous wastes and urine build up in the system because the kidney cannot eliminate them. It can be fatal in as little as 12 hours. If you suspect that your pet has FUS, take him to the vet as quickly as possible. Prompt attention could save your cat needless suffering and save you expensive vet bills.

Maintenance at home includes:

1) Provide your cat with a food low in magnesium. A food low in magnesium will also cause the urine to be acidic. A complete, balanced diet should also help reduce the problem. If you purchase cat food that says "100% nutritionally complete", you should be getting a quality food. A meat or poultry ingredient should be the first item listed on the label. Calcium and phosphorus should also be considered.

2) The litter box should be as large as possible and should always be kept clean.

3) Provide the cat with some exercise by encouraging him to play.

4) Clean, fresh water should always be provided. Change the water twice daily if necessary.

5) Watch your cat's weight, heavier cats seem to be more susceptible to FUS than thinner cats.

Feline leukemia is the leading cause of death in cats. It is almost always fatal in infected cats. This disease attacks the cat's immune system, much the same as the AIDS virus attacks humans. Some signs of the disease may include colds, stomach problems, sores, anemia, respiratory distress and weight loss. A cat with feline leukemia may not be able to ward off other diseases.

Feline leukemia is contagious from one cat to another and can be transmitted through saliva, urine, feces, biting, licking or from a pregnant cat to her kittens. Some cats will show no signs of distress, other show listless behavior or may become ill easily from other non-related diseases. Cats of all ages are susceptible to feline leukemia. Some cats can become immune to this disease, while others develop a latent form of the disease that can show itself at any time. A cat will not necessarily die if it has been diagnosed with feline leukemia. This simply means that the cat has been exposed to the virus. There is no indication that the disease can be transmitted to humans or dogs.

A simple blood test by your veterinarian can determine if your cat has the disease or has been exposed to feline leukemia. Vaccinations can be given to help offer protection. A series of injections will provide initial protection with yearly boosters. As many as 80% of all cats vaccinated will remain healthy and unaffected.

If your cat has died as a result of feline leukemia, it is considered safe to bring another cat into the house after 30 days. All items used by the original cat should be cleaned thoroughly using a chlorine bleach solution, this includes food and water dishes, bedding areas and the litter box. Better still, they should be discarded and new items purchased. The floor and carpeting should be cleaned as well.

If infected, a cat may live for a number of years, but it is still contagious to other cats. If you have only one cat and it stays indoors, you pet may live for a number of years even though diagnosed positive. It may, however, contract some other illness as a result of a weakened immune system.

Gerbils, unlike hamsters, are more active during the daylight hours. They are as easy to care for as hamsters. They are extremely clean, maintenance is very simple and their requirements are few. They only require a clean, peaceful environment, a quality diet and your attention.

The adult gerbil is approximately 4 inches in length and weighs almost 4 ounces. Their tails are covered with fur (unlike mice) and are tufted on the end.

HOUSING:

Make sure you choose a cage carefully, because it is possible for the gerbil to gnaw his way through wood. A wire cage specifically for small animals is good, or use a ten gallon aquarium - remember to get a screen cover because the curious animals will easily escape unless the cage is well covered. Gerbils are extremely good jumpers. If you examine them you will notice that the rear legs are much larger than those in from - which are more suited for gathering and holding food - giving the gerbil his excellent jumping ability.

The cage should be large enough to supply your gerbil with the opportunity to exercise. Exercises is extremely important for your pet - an exercise wheel whether purchased separately or supplied with the cage is best.

Food can be provided in a heavy plastic dish or crock dish. Although the gerbil will drink very little water, clean fresh water should always be available. The best way to supply water is in a water bottle, because water in a dish can easily become contaminated.

Gerbils can tolerate wide fluctuations in temperature and therefore do well in most home situations. Keep your gerbil's cage in an area of the room that is draft free to avoid any cold air.

CAGE MAINTENANCE:

Pine chips or cedar chips make an excellent bedding for gerbils. The cage should be cleaned thoroughly once a week when the old bedding is removed and new litter added. A solution of soap and water or a mild bleach solution can be used. Make sure the cage is totally dry before adding the new litter. Clean the food dish and water bottle with a brush to prevent the build-up of bacteria and slime.

Gerbils, being very clean animals by nature, will usually use one corner of their cage as their bathroom. Special cleaning attention should be given to this area.

FEEDING:

The gerbil is one of the easiest animals to feed. He is mainly a vegetarian. A quality, balanced diet should be provided daily. Treats and alfalfa can be provided from time to time. Vitamins and food supplements can be added to the food and water. Occasional vegetables can also be fed sparingly - no lettuce or vegetables from the cabbage family. Remove uneaten food promptly to avoid spoiling. Gerbils, since they are a desert animal, require little water, but it should be available to them at all times.

You should provide a wood block for the gerbil to gnaw on to help prevent excessive tooth growth. The gerbil's front teeth continue to grow, and will become useless to him for opening the seeds he needs to stay alive, unless he has a block on which to gnaw.

Gerbils can be fed rodent (or lab) blocks as a treat. These are nutritious and provide your pet with good food to gnaw upon.

LIFESTYLE:

Gerbils rarely, if ever, bite their owners. They can be easily tamed regardless of their age, although younger gerbils are sometimes easier to work with. Make sure they are active before attempting to pet or handle them. Simply put you hand in the cage and allow them to smell you (like most rodents, gerbils have a keen sense of smell) and get accustomed to you. Try petting them at this time. Soon you will be able to slip your cupped hand under the gerbil and cause him to sit in it. Once they are familiar to petting and handling, you can carefully remove them from the cage. Remember to move slowly and deliberately, avoid jerky movements. Try to handle them while you are sitting since a fall from a standing position can seriously injure your pet.

Gerbils are very easy to breed. All you need is a compatible male and female. Gerbils mate for life. It is not necessary to separate the male and female once the babies are born. In fact, the male gerbil will take an active part in the more intense nest building that will occur. The babies are born about 2 1/2 to 4 weeks after conception. Try to disturb the young as little as possible. Once their eyes are open - around 15 days - the young will wander all over the cage and it is then safe to briefly handle them. If it is necessary to clean the cage, just remove the litter from everywhere except the nest, and replace it. The babies are weaned at about 4 weeks and can be moved after 5 weeks.

The first gerbils for sale, and still the most common, are brown. They are now available, however, in a large variety of colours, including: white, black, black and white, and brown and white.

HEALTH:

The most common goldfish available today is the comet goldfish, named after the comet shape of its tail. Other common types of goldfish include the Fantails, Calicos and Black Moores. These are similar in shape and show the same distinctive three part tail. Other types of goldfish show many varied and unique shapes. Celestials (whose eyes face upwards), Orandas (who have a distinctive hood on their heads), Bubble Eyes and Sarassa Fantails are just a few of the more exotic goldfish available today.

GOLDFISH BOWLS: The most common place goldfish are kept is in the goldfish bowl. Goldfish require a larger amount of space per fish than tropicals and should be kept in the largest bowl you can get. The best rule of thumb is to keep one goldfish for each gallon of water. Goldfish bowls come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Many of these bowls are rectangular in shape while others are "drum" shaped. The surface area of the bowl is where the carbon dioxide produced by the fish is exchanged for the oxygen in the air. For this reason, it is best to fill the drum shaped bowl only 3/4 of the way, leaving as large a surface area as possible.

Many people have difficulty in keeping the water clear even though the bowl is cleaned and the water dechlorinated on a regular basis. Goldfish are considered to be a cold water fish, meaning they do best in cool water where there is a larger amount of available oxygen. Since the goldfish use so much oxygen and the water is warm, bacteria develop quickly, the water becomes cloudy and the available oxygen is depleted. You can tell when the oxygen level is low when your goldfish are gasping at the surface of the water. One means of solving this problem of cloudy water is to keep the bowl in a cool location where the temperature will remain relatively constant.

Goldfish bowls can become cloudy due to overcrowding. Too many fish in the bowl will exhaust the available oxygen very quickly. The extra foods and waste produced by the fish will also increase the levels of bacteria creating cloudy water. It is better to keep one goldfish per gallon of water than to provide him with a companion.

Overfeeding is another reason goldfish bowls will become cloudy. You can avoid this by feeding your fish very small amounts of food often, rather than one or two large meals per day. This way uneaten food will not cloud the water.

The water conditions can be improved with a pump and filter designed for goldfish bowls. The increased movement at the surface of the bowl allows for faster exchanges of carbon dioxide and oxygen and the water is filtered to help eliminate some bacteria.

AQUARIUMS: Of course, goldfish can be kept in an aquarium. Be careful to keep the number of goldfish at a minimum since overcrowding can cause problems; 1 to 2 fish per gallon of water is recommended. Provide filtration in the form of a corner filter, an under gravel filter, a sponge filter or an outside power filter. The aquarium can be lit using an incandescent or fluorescent reflector. If you use an incandescent reflector, remember that it will produce heat and should only be on about 4 hours per day. Gravel can be used for decorative purposes, a means of providing some additional filtration and as an anchor for plants. Real or artificial plants can be used. Goldfish will eat certain types of live plants.

MAINTENANCE: Unlike tropical fish, goldfish are considered cold water fish, and prefer water temperatures that are cooler than most tropicals require. This is one reason that goldfish are not recommended as additions to the warmer community tropical fish tank, since they use more oxygen per fish than do the tropicals.

When goldfish are kept in bowls, water changes are necessary. Make sure that the new water has been dechlorinated and is about the same temperature as the water the goldfish was in before the change. Keep the bowl in a location where dust and kitchen greases cannot coat the surface, causing a oxygen supply problem.

In the filtered aquarium, only partial water changes are necessary. Every week or so, remove about one-quarter to one-third of the water from the tank. An aquarium siphon works best because it will remove the water from the bottom of the aquarium where it is most dirty and also clean the debris from the gravel. As with goldfish bowls, the new water should be dechlorinated and be approximately the same temperature as the water that was removed.

FEEDING: The dietary requirements of goldfish are simple. Keep in mind that the goldfish is primarily a herbivore who prefers plant foods over animal foods. Basic goldfish flakes are an excellent place to begin, but should be supplemented with a variety of other foods. Conditioning (vegetable) flakes are helpful, as is the addition of some soft live plant foods, like anacharis. They can also be fed freeze dried tubifex worms and pelleted type foods.

Feed the goldfish only the amount of food they can consume in about 5 minutes. Some experimentation might be necessary, but you will be rewarded by having a clearer bowl or aquarium.

HEALTH: Goldfish can suffer the same types of diseases as tropicals and can be medicated accordingly. The most common problems occur due to overcrowding. Goldfish especially are susceptible to a number of diseases that can be traced to crowded living conditions. Some signs to look for are a lack of appetite, scraping the body against the rocks or gravel, white spots the size of grains of salt or frayed fins. All these problems can be cured using medications for fish available at pet stores. A good diet, plenty of room, and proper living conditions will all help to minimize any potential problems.

With just a minimal amount of attention, the new cavy owner and their pet can enjoy a long, loving relationship.

HOUSING:

Guinea pigs should be kept in a warm, quiet place. You can use an aquarium, a wooden box or a wire cage. Cavies should not be kept directly on wire because their small feet can get caught and they could easily break a foot or leg. Your guinea pig should have enough room to roam about freely. A space about 12"X20" is adequate. You should be sure to cover the bottom with bedding, in the form of hay, straw or wood chips, making sure that the bedding is always clean and dry. Pine chips are recommended. Keep your pet's home out of drafts and direct sunlight. Do not keep guinea pigs outdoors. They cannot tolerate the cold. The ideal temperature ranges between 60 and 75 degrees (F).

CAGE MAINTENANCE:

It is important to keep your cavy's cage clean and dry. Usually, a weekly cleaning is sufficient, depending upon the number of animals in the cage. Clean your guinea pig's cage with soap and hot water or a solution of 20 parts water to one part chlorine bleach. The food dish and the water bottle must be cleaned as well. Use a bottle brush to clean the inside of the bottle and don't forget to clean the tube.

FEEDING:

Use a food dish that is heavy enough so the guinea pig does not tip it over. Guinea pigs are strict vegetarians, they never eat meat. The recommended food is guinea pig pellets, they are hard enough to grind, helping to control tooth growth. Guinea pig pellets contain various grains, minerals and vitamins, including Vitamin C. The guinea pig must have Vitamin C in the diet in order to prevent scurvy.

Fresh, leafy greens such as spinach, carrot tops and alfalfa are excellent for supplementing a cavy's diet. Fresh picked grass, clover and dandelion leaves are good also. Make sure that the lawn has not been recently treated with insecticides or fertilized. A piece of carrot, apple, banana or any other fruit may also be given as a treat. Citrus fruits are an excellent source of Vitamin C. Limit the feeding of diet supplements to about 2 times per week and remember to remove the excess food promptly.

Clean, fresh water should be available at all times. A guinea pig water bottle is best because cavies tend to kick their bedding into open water containers. Guinea pig water bottles have a metal tube to prevent chewing and breaking.

LIFESTYLE:

Guinea pigs should be brushed on a regular basis. A toothbrush is an excellent way to groom these small animals, or you may use a small slicker brush.

Since guinea pig's teeth are constantly growing, a natural bone provides something to gnaw on, keeping the teeth ground down and sharp.

Check your cavy's toenails regularly. They should also be trimmed. You may use a small finger-nail clipper. Care must be taken so that you don't cut them too short and expose the blood vessel running through the nail.

A guinea pig can be bathed if necessary but make sure that you dry him completely when finished. Drafts can cause severe problems for guinea pigs.

Female guinea pigs carry their young for just over 2 months. The average litter is about 2 to 3 babies, who are weaned in about 4 weeks. Once weaned, they should be separated from the mother. Some guinea pigs are very friendly and respond to handling immediately, while other require more attention. If handled gently they will respond favourably, enjoying being held and petted.

Children should handle cavies while sitting because this can help to eliminate accidental squeezing or dropping. Remember to always support your pet with two hands - one hand under your pet and the other gently around it.

HEALTH:

A well cared for guinea pig rarely gets sick or needs medications. They are susceptible, though, to respiratory problems such as colds and pneumonia. If you need to medicate your cavies, DO NOT give them penicillin!! Cavies are allergic to all forms and it will kill them. Be sure to consult you veterinarian.

Guinea pigs do not get fleas but can get lice and mites. These are not transferable to humans and can be treated with a spray approved for use on kittens or birds.

There are many varieties of guinea pigs

available today, including:

American

Satin American

Abyssinian

Satin Abyssinian

Teddy

Satin Teddy

Silkie

Satin Silkie

Peruvian

Satin Peruvian

Crested

The all come in a wide range of colours, including: black, cream, red, white, beige and albino.

Make sure you choose a cage not made of wood because a hamster will easily gnaw his way through the sides. A wire cage specifically for small animals is good, or a ten gallon aquarium is also acceptable - remember to get a screen cover because these curious animals will easily escape unless the cage is well covered. Newer plastic cages - with tubes for tunnelling and climbing are also available.

The cage should be large enough to supply your hamster with the opportunity to exercise. Exercise is extremely important for your pet. An exercise wheel, whether purchased separately or supplied with the cage is best.

Hamsters by nature are hoarders. They will take food and push it into